• EXTERIOR - Driveways, Sidewalks, Steps, Porches, Patios, Decks, Landscaping, Drainage, Retaining Walls, Foundation, Window Wells, Siding, Doors, Windows, Storms, Trim, Soffit, Fascia, Gutters, Downspouts, Electrical Service, A.C. Compressor, Electrical Outlets, and Faucets.
• ROOF - Structure and Roof Covering Type, Flashing, Valleys, Ventilation, Chimneys, Skylight, Vents, and Metal Edging.
• GARAGE - Structure, Garage Door, Opener, Floor, Drain, Electrical, Fire Wall / Entry Door, Unattached garages - same items as exterior of house.
• BASEMENT / CRAWLSPACE - Stairs, Foundation, Floors, Drains, Floor Joists, Subfloor, Bridging, Beams, Presence of Moisture, Dry Rot, and Wood Damaging Insects
• PLUMBING - Private Well, Water Supply, Distribution, Septic System, Waste and Vent, Water Heater, Laundry Hookups, Drains, and Sumps.
• HEATING / COOLING - Systems, Distribution, Fuel, Burners, Ducting, Exhaust, Thermostat, Boiler, Zones, and Humidifier.
• ELECTRICAL - Supply and Amperage, Breaker and Fuse Size, Grounding, Circuit and Size Availability, Wiring Types, Fixtures, Outlets, and GFI Protection.
• KITCHEN / BATH - Sinks, Faucets, Drains, Tubs, Showers & Enclosures, Toilets, Cabinets, Disposal, Exhaust, GFI Protection, and Stove Utility.
• INTERIOR - Walls, Ceilings, Floors, Doors, Windows, Heat Sources, Electrical Outlets & Switches, Stairs, Railings, and Fireplaces.
• ATTIC - Access, Roof Structure, Ventilation, Wiring, Insulation, Water Penetration, Rodent Evidence, Chimney, and Vent.

1. To identify evident defects of the well, pump, and components which may allow contaminants into the drinking water, affect water pressure or well operation.
2. To ensure code compliance of the well and pump components from the year of installation, or, as the DNR says, "Does the well now meet the then code?"

Since many of the components of a well are not visible, this inspection is greatly enhanced by whatever records can be found. Newer wells in Wisconsin should have a Wisconsin Well Unique Number on a sticker near the pump, pressure tank or the electrical panel. Other resources for well information are the county clerk’s records of the construction report, or the Homeowner’s recollections. These help supply information such as the year installed, depth, casing depth, etc.

Visual Inspection, Components and Observations:

• WELL TYPE - Drilled, Driven Point, Spring etc.
• CAPACITY - Normal or High (Irrigation, etc.), Number of Homes Served.
• LOCATION - Normal, (Drawn on the site map), Basement, Pit Well.
• CASING - Steel or Thin Spiral Steel, Diameter, Height above grade.
• WELL CAP - Vermin resistant or older overlapping.
• CONTAMINATION - Legally proper separation from contaminating sources.
• PUMP TYPE - Submersible, Deep Well Jet, Shallow Well Jet, Brand, Age, Gallons of water per minute, Voltage and Amps.
• DISCHARGE TYPE - Pitless, Top Discharge, Unprotected Suction Line (Non Compliant).
• PRESSURE TANK - Size in gallons, Bladder or Non-Bladder, Underground, Waterlogged.
• PRESSURE GAUGE - Broken or Non-Functioning.
• SAMPLING FAUCET - Height above floor, Threaded (Non- compliant) or Non-Threaded.
• WATER TEST - A water sample is taken and sent to a State approved lab for Coliform and Nitrate testing. Other tests are available upon request.

ITEMS OF CONCERN are summarized in this report, Recommendations are made, and a Site Map showing locations is provided for future use. Due to the hidden nature of components, a Well Inspection carries no warranty nor guarantee for future functionality.

"What's wrong with my water?"

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THE SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION

THE SEPTIC SYSTEM is typically one or two holding tanks and an absorption field which break down waste material in a manner that protects our groundwater. Leftover water and waste requires periodic pumping (Every three years per State Requirements).

THE SEPTIC TANK is a pretreatment device which breaks down the waste solids with mostly Anaerobic bacteria. The Sludge settles to the bottom; the Scum Layer floats on top and the black water exits past the baffle to a second pump chamber or directly to the absorption field, where it filters back through the soil.

CONSTRUCTION RECORDS and / or homeowner information are used to ascertain the system’s age, location, size of tanks based on number of bedrooms or number of residents, whether the home is occupied or vacant, last pumping etc.

This Inspection is my visual evaluation as a Wisconsin licensed POWTS Maintainer to identify evident defects and code compliance. I open the tank covers, weather and conditions permitting, inspect the baffles, measure the scum and sludge layers and recommend pumping if the combination of sludge and scum layer are more than one third of the total depth. I observe the absorption field if located for evidence of effluent at the surface, or ponding at the bottom of the observation pipes.

The Septic System components and conditions inspected are:

• TANK LOCATION AND DEPTH - if visible or site plan provided
• TANK COVERS - Condition, If Exposed, Chains & Locks
• TANK SIZE - if known, also pump chamber tank size
• BAFFLES - functional, missing, broken?
• SEDIMENT - percentage of volume
• FILTER - usually on pump chamber tanks, need cleaning?
• PRESSURIZED SYSTEM - pump, wiring
• ALARM - present, functional?
• ABSORPTION FIELD - Conventional, At Grade, Mound, Surface Soil, Surface effluent?
• VENT PIPES - Observation pipes evident? Subsurface Ponding?

Monetary assistance for Septic Replacement

I summarize items of concern in the Septic System Report, make recommendations and provide a site map for future reference.

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RENTAL WEATHERIZATION

The RENTAL WEATHERIZATION inspection applies to a rental property or a building purchased for rental that has never been issued a certificate of compliance, and:

• Was built on or before December 1, 1978, is a 1 or 2 unit, and will not be occupied by the owner
• Has 3 or more living units, was constructed before April 15, 1976, and will not be occupied by the owner
• Has 4 or more units, (even if owner occupied)
• Is not a mobile home - mobile homes are exempt

RENTAL WEATHERIZATION REQUIREMENTS are as follows:

• WINDOWS must be double glazed or have storm windows
• DOORS must be insulated, double glazed, or have a storm door
• WEATHERSTRIPPING must be installed on exterior doors and windows where moveable parts make contact
• CAULKING must be applied to exterior joints, including doors and windows for the first three stories, plus the sill plate and utility penetrations
• VENTILATION must be present in attics and crawl spaces- 1 sq. ft. per 300 sq. ft. of floor area. Vented crawl spaces must have a vapor barrier on the ground
• INSULATION must be installed in “accessible” areas (without altering the permanent structure) to the levels shown in Tables 67.05-A through C of the Code:
  
  
  

  Attics	If R is 10.9 or less	then bring to	R-38
  Attics	If R-11 to R-18.9	then add	R-19
  Attics	If R-19 or more	OK
  Box Sills	If R is 10.9 or less	then bring to	R-19
  Box Sills	If R-2.6 to R-10.9	then add	R-11
  Box Sills	If R-11 or more	OK
  Heating Supply Ducts		In vented spaces	R-5
  Steam Heating Pipes		In vented spaces	R-4
  Hydronic Heating Pipes		In vented spaces	R-2
  Water Heater Pipes		in vented spaces (5’)	R-2
  Attic Access - horizontal			R-19
  Attic Access - vertical			R-5

  
  

This inspection has to be done by a licensed Rental Weatherization Inspector, is subject to The Rental Unit Energy Efficiency Code, Chap. Comm 67, and has stipulations and waivers that may be applicable. Please call Ted at (608) 634-4544 for further clarification, or contact the Department of Commerce at (608) 267-240.

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RADON TESTING

WHAT IS RADON? Radon is a natural radioactive gas seeping up from the earth which can become trapped in living spaces and inhaled by the occupants. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. As a Home Inspector, I totally agree with the importance of testing for unsafe levels of Radon as do the EPA and other health organizations.

RADON TESTING, SHORT TERM- This is the typical canister test done for real estate transactions. Two canisters are placed for 24 to 48 hours, usually one in the finished basement (or lowest living level of the home), and one in a main floor bedroom. Canisters are subsequently tested in a lab for the amount of radon collected. These tests are accurate, but they are only a snapshot in time.

Short term testing problems:

• Vacant houses invariably have higher than normal levels
• Heavy rain can literally push radon up through the basement floor producing higher levels during the limited test period
• Frozen ground can produce higher readings, since radon is trapped outside the home causing a “funnel” effect of radon through the foundation
• Negative air pressure in a tightly sealed home from clothes dryers, bath exhaust fans, and some ventilation systems can actually pull more radon into the home temporarily raising the level during the test period
• Dishonest sellers can thwart the test by leaving windows open or covering canisters for part of the time, producing a false lower reading, so the buyer may live in an unsafe environment with a false sense of security

I do this radon test upon request, and it is accurate within the limitations expressed above. The results help to indicate the need for further testing.

LONG TERM TESTING- If you are still concerned about radon in your living environment, the best solution is a long term one that balances out the numbers monthly to over a year’s time so you can take an average, and determine whether or not you need mitigation. While this is not timely for a real estate transaction, it is the most accurate determinant of radon and possible mitigation for the environment you‘re living in.

One such monitor is an EPA approved plug in device with an led readout, the Safety Siren Radon Gas Monitor, which retails for about $100.00.